Arashiyama, Kyoto

We arrived by train and immediately felt the cool air of the Katsura river flowing out of the mountains. We found a shady spot along side and had a quick lunch of onigiri (rice balls) and bananas and watched men fishing, egrets and herons wading, hawks flying overhead and people in river boats avoiding the waterfall as they pulled up to the docks to let tourists out.

Refreshed we began to climb the nearest mountain and what a steep hike it was. We were on our way to the monkey park where researchers and a bunch of tourists respectively observe and feed macaque monkeys. We could hear the monkeys better than see them on the climb but we did have two garter snakes (we hoped that they were not poisonous) cross our path. Eleanor became nervous and clung to me for the rest of the hike and the whole time we were with the ‘wild’ monkeys.

We arrived at the top sweaty and out of breath (we carried the kids the last bit) and so we went straight into the feeding hut for a seat to cool down. This place had chain-link fencing for windows and female monkeys were hanging around being fed apples or peanuts which could be purchased for our entertainment. Tim bought some apple and began to feed a mother with a new babe clinging to her. Others fought for some of the food and it wasn’t a pretty sight.

The view of Kyoto was incredible as it was a clear day. We walked to the pond and saw monkeys having a drink. It wasn’t long before I had enough of this place. The monkeys usually live in groups of 30 or so but here the troop was almost 200 strong. Their behaviour was so altered by human control and feeding that although it was not a zoo it was not seeing ‘wild’ monkeys in their natural habitat. Maybe I am lucky to have experienced that in Central America so this just didn’t feel right.

There was a playground there for children so we let the kids enjoy the zip line and slide a few times before hiking down. Monkeys followed and we noticed their keepers below using sling-shots to ensure they didn’t go out of the park and disturb the world of humans below.   

At the bottom we crossed the famous Togetsukyao or ‘Moon crossing’ bridge across the river to the town on the other side. It was bustling with excitement. Very fancy ‘rickshaws’ pulled ladies around and people ate in various restaurants. Stores sold packages of sweets to bring as gifts for those who couldn’t visit with you, and such beautiful wares. Ella and I got silk fans so we could feel beautiful and keep cool.

We followed a cobble-stone street to a famous temple called Tenryuji- ‘heavenly dragon’ which had an incredible zen garden. We wandered around hoping Lucas wouldn’t dare run across the purposefully raked pebbles although we could understand how that space would seem inviting to a four year old. We tried to sit quietly and enjoy the peacefulness the gardens were supposed to induce but the kids began to melt down after the bamboo forest and we had to carry them out. They were hungry of course, and so were we.  

Tim had a favourite Ramen place downtown so we took the train into Kyoto for a 4pm Ramen dinner. Ramen originated in China but the Japanese have made it their own. Ramen is a hot noodle dish with shaved roasted pork, garlic, onions in a thick soup and yes, it was good especially washed down with Kirin beer. We ate in the tiniest booth I have ever tried to sit in and listened to the eaters around us slurp with gusto.

Tim won some pens that we brought home only to discover they have an LED light projector that shines an image of a ramen dish on your wall in the dark. Tim suggested we have lazer ramen fights and I laughed at how amazingly entertaining Japanese advertising is.

Autumn Equinox

Shubun No Hi is held on Sept. 23^rd and the people of Japan get a national holiday. It is a time where they pay their respects to their ancestors and remember the dead. We saw many visiting the cemetery and the local Shinto Shrine.

It is also the first day of fall and let me tell you it pushed in with O-ame (big rain).  It was so hot the night before that we were sweating through our pj’s. But as it had been cooling at night and we dislike air-conditioning we kept the windows open hoping for a night breeze. The middle of the night brought a thundering storm with a lot of heavy rain so Tim and I had to run around closing windows so the floors wouldn’t get wet. The temperature dropped at least eight degrees which left us reaching for blankets by morning. We all slept at that point with no desire to rise until later in the morn. The heavy rain, thunder and lightning didn’t let up until around ten am.

After breakfast Tim worked from home not wanting to get soaked and the kids did their homeschooling practising phonics and math. Then we shifted into learning about the full moon. Why?

It was also the day for Autumn Moonlight Viewing which everyone reminded us to do and is a very big deal. This activity occurs on the full moon of Sept. which happened to fall on the Equinox this year so today was an extra special day as the two combined in ceremony.

So, I drew a picture of the full moon containing two rabbits, male and female with a rice thresher in between them which Japanese people claim they see in the full moon. The kids coloured it and hopped we would see the moon soon.

We had a delicious feast for dinner. Yaki-Udon, noodles with squid, steamed Kabocha squash, broccoli and a big salad. The bottle of French wine called ‘Nature Vivante’ was a perfect match.  The kids call Udon ‘Kung Fu Noodles’ and they slurped them in a way that is not polite in western culture. Here, the louder the better.

For dessert the children ate a white cake with a strawberry on top that was delicious. (I know because they love me enough to have fed me a bite each). Tim bought us “Moon Cakes” which is traditional for the night and they were made of pounded rice and red bean paste. I tried my best to enjoy the chewy, sticky stuff but the light wine buzz made me child-like and I couldn’t help but do a blasphemous thing and challenge Eleanor to a tug-of-war with it. What a laugh. That led to an even bigger competition as Eleanor then challenged me to a sumo fight.

You see, the 5^th Sumo wrestling competition has been taking place in Tokyo and it has been on T.V. so we have watched a bit for cultural learning.  What could I do? So, I accepted Eleanor’s challenge and the first ever Reiffenstein Sumo competition began in my yoga room. (so much for peace and tranquility).

 Tim was the referee and Eleanor and I sized each other up, then departed company to consider our options and throw a lot of salt to cleanse the fighting area. Back in the circle we stomped and tried to look really strong while the referee (Tim with a cereal box on his head) yelled directions. Then we wrestled and laughed ourselves to the ground. Lucas challenged the winner and then Tim got in the action. All I can say is thank God we were not in those little diaper things those big guys wear.

The moon shone out from behind the clouds and we ran up to our balcony to see if those rabbits were up there. We found them upside down.  We all began to wax poetic and below is a sample;

Tim’s Haiku

Harvest moon

Crickets chirping softly

Fall is here

Lucas’ poem

Like the moon

Likes the trees

Likes the clouds

Likes the breeze

Ella’s Compilation

I see the moon in sky

I watch the clouds floating by

I love my moon

See you soon

Respect-for-the-Aged Day

Monday was a national holiday in Japan. It was Keiro No Hi or Respect-for-the-Aged Day. According to my book “Japan at a Glance”, this day is to express respect for all the elderly folks of the country, to thank them for their contributions to society over the many years, and to celebrate their longevity.

Last week the children worked on a project which the school then sent to their grandparents. Ella and Lucas participated so both Oma Agnes and Opa and Grandma Jessie and Grandpa John will receive something in Japanese which Tim will have to translate for us all.

The kids were happy to have the day off and as we couldn’t visit with our elders we went to Osaka Castle instead. They loved the train rides through the city to get there and they pointed out buildings and advertisements that they thought were interesting. Their favourite was a large red Ferris wheel bridging the top of two skyscrapers.

The castle is surrounded by a forest, then a large wall with an entrance gate, a moat another large wall and a second moat. This design was to confuse enemy. The kids were amazed but wondered if they were ever going to get to the castle itself. There was a Taiko Drum troop practising so we marched to the beat pretending to be Samari until we came to a large square where there were vendors, buskers and a huge crowd.  We entered the re-built castle and explored the museum looking at armour, painted screens depicting the fights and the Golden Tea Room which was stunningly beautiful yet soothing. (Eleanor and I thought we would love to be invited to have tea in there). The kids were a bit disappointed it wasn’t like a real castle on the inside but they were happy to dress up in some period costumes.

We climbed stairs to the eighth floor and saw the view of the city. It was really something. We could also see what the gold creatures on all the turrets were. They were mystical dragon-fish placed all around the original wooden castle to prevent it from burning down. Unfortunately, they didn’t work. 

We played in the old forests around the castle for quite some time before we caught the train home.