Festival of the Ages

On Friday we let the kids play hookie to see a parade called the ‘Jidai Matsuri’ which means festival of the ages. It ran along major streets and across an old wooden bridge in the center of downtown Kyoto. This grand parade commemorates the history of Kyoto as the capital city for over 1000 years prior to it being moved to Tokyo in 1868.

We arrived in Kyoto early so Tim took us to an amazing little restaurant near Kyoto University for lunch. It was an artsy place with earthy décor on heavy wooden tables. The wooden chairs had all sorts of great pillows on them and there were painted canvases on the walls. It had a French influence. We had the most delicious salad and their specialty, garlic chicken, was so good. The restaurant was full and Eleanor pointed out that the only females in there were she and I and the waitress. All the others were men and she wanted to know if women were allowed to be eating there. She is very observant and full of questions.

After lunch and a stroll through the campus, our taxi dropped us off near the Sanjo Bridge and we landed a spot curb-side. The parade arrived sooner than we thought so our wait wasn’t too long. It began with the costumes from the Meiji Era (1868-1912) when the emperor was restored to power. This period also saw Japan change from being a feudal society to having a capitalist economy and left the Japanese with a lingering Western influence. The term Meiji means ‘enlightened rule’. In the parade the important men wore golden colored robes with head wear that resembled a black oven mitt with a white wrap to keep it on. The leading Samurai warrior class had wrapped flowing pleated pants with a black wrap-around top showing some needle work and swords. Their hair was pulled back and in the traditional top-not of their status. The retainers wore armor (leather and stitching) and grass outerwear for camouflage we guessed, as well as black under blue wrap-around robes with padded pointed shoulders. Several women walked in golden kimono-like robe with a flowing red sash with really long hair pulled down into pony tails carrying round, woven basket-like things on their front side. The sound of flutes and drums filled the air.
Periodically and conveniently timed to break up the various eras, buses came zooming along the street and turned at the corner reminding us we were still in the modern era. I guess the police couldn’t close off the intersection for a full hour so they managed the traffic in between eras.

Next was the Edo Era (1603-1868) which was ruled by the Tokugawa Shogunate who brought 250 years of stability to Japan. We saw members of the Samurai class in their fine garments riding decorated horses or being carried in palanquin.  Those who served them walked wearing plain black or neutral colours. The goods were carried in large trunks or carts that were pulled over land by servants or oxen.

The buses went by again and unfortunately it broke the flow too much for Eleanor and Lucas and they began to lose interest.  We captured Lucas for a few extra minutes by teasing him that his favourite character Anpanman just walked by.  He looked for him for a bit, but then he wanted to draw so we gave him some paper and he drew pictures of Anpanman as a Samurai with a great horned helmet.

Heian (which means ‘peace and tranquility’) Era was from 794 to 1185 when Kyoto became the capital (Heian-kyo). At this time the arts, culture and Zen flourished due to major Chinese influence. In the parade, the fabrics of the elite class were so rich and gorgeous with robes and kimonos that were layers of material and hats with emblems of gold. The black shoes resembled Dutch wooden clogs (even though the Dutch did not have influence until the 1600). The soldiers wore a type of helmet that George Lucas likely copied for Darth Vader in Star Wars. The sound of a horn was followed by a bass drum calling all of us to pay attention. Eleanor looked up and finally saw what she had been hoping for, a warrior princess. The lady would have been of royal caste but she was wearing armour and carrying a sword along with bow and arrows. She had on a golden tiara and rode a grey horse.  That sighting made Eleanor happy but again she commented that the parade was full of men and we only got to see a few girls and women in costume. She stood up and entertained us with a little dance and then proclaimed that when she grew up she was going to be a warrior princess.

 After the parade we sat down beside a waterfall of the Kamo river and the children had melonpan (a special bun) and ran around. Then we walked along a famous narrow street called Pontocho full of tastefully designed old-style restaurants. As if we hadn’t seen enough costumes we were treated to the view of a Maiko waiting outside one.  Maiko are young working women who are still training to become Geisha (professionally trained female artist). A Maiko in full costume is said to approximate the Japanese ideal of feminine beauty.  According to the book I am currently reading, ‘Geisha of Gion’, she has the classic look of a Heian princess, as though she might have stepped out of an eleventh-century scroll painting. Her face is a perfect oval, her skin white and flawless and her hair is as black as a raven’s wing. Her brows are half moons and her mouth a delicate rosebud. Her neck is long and sensuous and her figure is gently rounded.

Then another Maiko walked up the street to the same location and Eleanor and I both gasped at her beauty and her exquisite fall Kimono. What luck! Usually the only people to see Maiko are the ones who have paid to have her entertain them at a formal banquet. We were able to see two in a matter of minutes. We all hugged Tim thanking him for his suggestion to wander down this wonderful street on our way to the train station and Eleanor and I agreed that the Maiko sighting made up for the lack of women in the parade.  

Birding around Nishinomiya

There are a lot of birds around the area I live (just outside Osaka) as we are nestled into the side of a well-treed mountain where several rivers flow. I came across a birding station and wetland walk similar to our Waterfowl Park in Sackville and was overjoyed at my find. There were a lot of elderly folk with gigantic telephoto-lens cameras around taking photos of the species that were present that day. I am glad to say that they were not quiet amongst themselves so I didn’t feel guilty that the kids were running around making noise. To amuse them we took a trail that led away from the birders and into the forest only to find ourselves on a tiny path through low-branches of trees and treacherous up-hill climbs. I began to wonder if this trail was meant for humans and eventually decided, after seeing some animal scat, that it was actually a path for Inoshishi (wild boar). We turned around and took some scary, steep slides down the slopes at the edge of the cliffs of the river. I prayed none of us would lose our foothold and go beyond. We are not as agile as a mountainous wild boar.
I was able to locate a birding book that is also in English called “A Field Guide to the Birds of Japan”. It has been a great help for identifying species I was observing in my neighbourhood so I have shared my list below.
Black Kite (raptor), White-rumped swifts, White, Grey and Japanese wagtails, Grey Herons, Little Egrets, Little Grebe (river habitat), Japanese Robins, Asian brown flycatchers, Pale thrush, Willow Tit, Varied Tit, Japanese White-eye, Short-tailed Bush Warbler, Siberian Meadow Bunting, Gray Starling, Azure-winged Magpie (forested areas). We have also seen a lot of Large-billed crows which are huge and look more like Ravens.
One bird which I have learned I will not see in the wild is the Japanese Crested Ibis. It has been in the news lately due to its near extinction and recent reintroduction.
At one time, the Crested Ibis was widespread in Japan, China, Korea, Taiwan and Russia. It has now disappeared from most of its former range. The last wild Japanese Crested Ibis died in October 2003, while the remaining wild population can be found only in Shaanxi province of China.
Traditional watershed habitats have been replaced by irrigated rice farming and dry wheat production so the birds have experienced massive habitat loss. The Crested Ibis managed to find some food in the rice paddies eating frogs, small fishes and small animals but starvation was said to be the cause of mortality of 80% of wild birds found dead. Agrochemicals at feeding-sites is also said to be a factor. It is good to find that extensive captive breeding programs have been developed by Japan and China to conserve the species. On September 25, 2008, the Sado Japanese Crested Ibis Preservation Center released 10 of the birds as part of its Crested Ibis restoration program, which aims to introduce 60 ibises into the wild by 2015. This marks the first time the rare bird has returned to the Japanese wild since 1981. I hope this is a success story.

Undoukai (sports day)

Monday was another national holiday. This time it was for a festival of movement. The children did have school but not in the regular sense. The morning was dedicated to activities and performances for them and their families.

According to an article in the Japan Times this holiday was established during the Meiji Era when schools switched to a European education system. During a visit to Japan, Adm. A.L. Douglas of Britain’s Royal Navy proposed the sports day whereby participants could compete in various races. It was accepted as part of military training and the first session saw 230 Navy students do pole vault, a three-legged race, a blindfolded race, a race where buckets of water must be carried on athletes' heads, and a pig-chasing race. Then it spread among colleges, and junior schools to the elementary schools. In the beginning these events were held in a nearby field or shrine but in 1904 the government ordered elementary schools to set up gymnastics fields so they began to host undokai on their own.

Corporations also host undokai and they are now favoured as a way to improve communications among employees.

As for our childrens’ undokai, Tim and I arrived at the kindergarten sports grounds and concluded that we were not prepared for our morning. Everyone else was set up with their mats down holding their places, bags of necessities and sun umbrellas were already open. (It reminded me of the Vancouver Folk Festival). Tim and I were going to have to stand for the next three hours in the blazing sun.  We didn’t pack our picnic tarp, my fan, a bottle of water or sun protection. Talk about needing to improve communications. Luckily my friend Yasuyo loaned us a small tarp to sit on. Tim did get quite burnt and I kept sneaking up to where Lucas’ class was seated to ask him for a sip of water from his thermos.   

Looking around I could tell the school had put a lot of work into this day. The surrounding fences were decorated with all sorts of colourful cardboard creations including Lucas’ rocket. On the grounds sat adult- sized cardboard and wood trees, rabbits, a duck and a frog. The principal and the members of the Board were sitting under tents and a DJ was sending music through big speakers including a brief snippet of Frank Zappa’s ‘Peaches en Regalia’!?

All the kids paraded out. There were two classes of each; the 4 year olds, 5 yr. olds and three classes of 6 year olds. The parents had to join in on the field with the children for a morning prayer and stretches. Then the 4 year olds took their places at some pylons for their races. Four kids ran at a time and had to go across the field to hit one of the tambourines held by some of the older kids. This was so cute to watch and when it came time for Lucas to go he ran at great speed and really gave the tambourine a bang.

The next activity included one family member so Tim participated. Four nets on stands (similar to basket ball) were brought out and set up in the four corners of the playing field. Then quite a number of red, blue, white, and yellow bean bag balls were spread about. The music began and the adults began throwing the balls into the baskets. It was great fun to watch and to play as these balls were flying all over the place and everyone was laughing. The numbers for each team were tallied by the teachers throwing two at a time into the air as the Principal counted over the loudspeaker.  Tim’s team came in second. Then it was the children’s turn and the teachers made it a bit easier for them by lowering the baskets and walking around with each classes box decorated for the occasion.

Garbage collection came next. Eleanor’s year competed against each other to see which team could work together to haul tires, hard hats, mats, and other strange objects from a central pile back to their spot. I am proud to say that Eleanor’s group won in part because she spent so much of her time collecting small objects that gave them the highest number of tallied points.

The next game included a family member again and as Tim could understand the directions he went. The cardboard trees and animals were set about and Lucas and Tim had to gather things to feed (oranges, nuts etc.) into the mouths of the animals by following the musical sounds and acting the part for each. There was a lot of hopping going on. Eleanor’s class was helping so Eleanor was inside a rabbit holding it up and collecting the food.

Rope Pull or as we say Tug of War was next. The little kids went first and then Eleanor’s grade. In order to promote harmony the Principal had members of the Board come out and help the team that lost in a second round so that each side would win once and no one would be disappointed.

There was a break where all the kids left the area for snack and to freshen up or cool down, so the adults did the same. When they returned they all carried decorated shakers or flags and other things in their hands as props for a big performance.

This event was an amazingly choreographed performance. Eleanor danced with ribbons along with other girls to represent the butterflies, there was flag movement and boys and girls rocking out on cardboard guitars while others drummed. It was quite a spectacle. Again I was so proud of Eleanor as she danced beautifully and gracefully to Japanese music in front of the huge crowd. I got choked-up and had to hold back tears of happiness.

For the penultimate event Eleanor’s age group did their relay races. The oval course was well marked as the Vice-Principal was really on top of re-chalking the lines. (Tim got quite a kick out of his diligence of keeping a well marked course). The teams were sent out to prepare and they put on their coloured mesh tops. Eleanor’s colour was red and her team began well but fell behind the others. When Eleanor got the ring her team was way behind but she ran her fastest and passed one then the other to get her team caught up. People were cheering about how fast she was (“hayai, hayai”) and I did my typical ‘whooo hooo’ with arms in the air. I was so proud of her. A couple of other kids also stood out for their relatively quick pace so it was quite exciting to watch.

The last activity of the day was for families and children so Tim danced with Eleanor and I danced with Lucas in the Coconut Dance. What a hoot! The dance music was going and two teachers were leading us with directions over the microphone. I didn’t understand a thing but once we got going we followed along and had great fun. It was so nice to see so many adults out having such a good time with their children that I didn’t want that magic to end.  But it was really hot and tummies were growling. It was time to go home for a celebratory lunch.